Ciao Italia!

Roma. I’ve arrived. The last time I was in Rome, five years ago, I tossed a coin to the Trevi Fountain to secure my return. What can I say? It worked!

My high school friend and I slept in a really great hostel overnight, to catch our early flight out of Edinburgh. I was able to see even more of the city – which was quite a treat! Holyroodhouse Palace, royal residence of HM the Queen, and hearing a concert at St. Giles Cathedral, mentioned in the last post, were two of my favorites. Hostels, I have to say, are such interesting places. My first hostelling experience was ideal, but certainly an adjustment. Also new is the reality of living out of a backpack for two weeks. Home is literally on my back - just like a turtle. In terms of hostels, I found it interesting that people expect to strike up conversations with perfect strangers and form such temporal relationships. Actually, I had a rough time falling asleep but was well enough rested to face our busy travel day. After a bus, plane, and train – we arrived in the Eternal City.

You know you’re in Rome when STOP signs instantly become irrelevant. The airport shuttle actually bumped into a car along the way. My friend and I stared, slightly amused, as the bus driver peeled away from the scene. A nation fueled by caffeine, nicotine, and pasta – it’s as if they couldn’t get places fast enough and , yet, could casually sit for hours once they arrive. I would recommend that any traveler put away the cameras on buses, and simply let the landscape unfold before their eyes. Eyes are the best lenses into a new place. Watching Italian life on the streets is certainly a treat, hearing them speak is even better. Whereas Britons seem to use language to hear themselves talk, Italians seem to use language to romance the listener. Faces expressive and hands flying, it’s hard to miss the point of any conversation in Italy.

Staying with my high school friend, I’ll call her Abbey, in an elegant Italian hotel just outside the city center – I think this Holy Week in Rome is going to be memorable, if not a little nuts. (Hopefully no one will mind that I’m Protestant!) Buona Notte!

Reform yerselves!

Before meeting my best friend from high school at the airport today, I decided to do a wee “Scottish Reformation Tour”. Since I’m heading to Rome for the Easter Holidays, which isn’t really Scottish or Reformed, I thought I’d get in some good old fashioned Protestantism beforehand. Turns out, those hours were well-filled and well-worth the early bus ride.

First stop on the list was St. Giles. I saw this church, once a cathedral, on Saturday but didn’t get a chance to pop inside. John Knox was the Minister of St. Giles from 1559 to 1572. On an interesting note, Knox is buried in the kirkyard. That’s not the interesting part. Someone several decades ago got the bright idea to put a car park on top of the cemetery. John Knox rests in eternal repose somewhere under slot 23. The day I visited, a BMW was parked on top of his remains. Quirky, huh?

St. Giles itself was quite fascinating. I struck up a conversation with a very knowledgeable, albeit xenophobic, tour guide (fantastic comments about the French!). He kindly showed me around the place and I so enjoyed having personal insight into the cathedral. My guide was obviously enthused about his work. Some highlights for me were seeing the Queen’s chair, the original Covenanter’s covenant, and the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle. I liberally used my £2 photography license and took many pictures to capture the historically significant sight. Also, I believe this is my first time to properly be a tourist independently. I love traveling with people, but flying solo for a bit was also quite refreshing. St. Giles is a must see in Edinburgh, I think - especially if you can score a free personal tour of the place.

On my way out, my guide suggested I take a look inside Parliament Hall. His advice was well taken! Though pictures weren’t allowed, obviously, seeing a room where such important decisions have been made, and are still being made, over the years was really neat. Very important looking persons, who I assumed were Members of Parliament, walked around in those fantastic wigs and spoke in such dignified tones – I was quite impressed.

Just a short walk from St. Giles Church is the John Knox House. Not only does the house give you an idea of life in the 16^th century, it also has on display several important manuscripts. Like, for an instance, a copy of the Geneva Bible. If you’re up on European History, this Bible is a fairly big deal. Once again, I was enchanted by the materialization of the past, right before my eyes. How amazing to literally see the history of my faith in action.

My friend did safely arrive at Edinburgh Airport and is now safely in my dorm room in St Andrews. On Sunday we head back to Edinburgh to catch our flight to Rome. What a diverse life I lead! John Knox on Friday, the Pope on Monday. Bella!

About a Dentist

To satisfy all the curiosity surrounding European practices of universal healthcare, I thought I’d share about my trip to the dentist. Being, of course, a small-government Libertarian kind of girl, I am not particularly enthused about the recent steps America has taken towards national healthcare. And yet, obviously, my opinions didn’t stop me from using the system when I needed it.

A few weeks ago my back molars were looking pretty icky and my untrained dentist’s opinion was sure I’d developed a cavity. To my complete surprise, I found a very reputable dentist in Cupar – a town near St Andrews – which offered NHS coverage to students. Also to my surprise, they had space for an appointment! I’m well aware of American ideas regarding dental practice, so you might understand my shock. Yesterday, I dutifully boarded the X24 with high hopes of sparkling teeth and clean gums. On the way, however, something amazing happened.

I’ve wanted to experience a grand moment of awe at Scotland since I arrived on that frosty February morning. In a totally unexpected way, my moment happened. Somewhere between listening to the soundtrack of Miss Potter on my iPod and watching the Scottish countryside unfold before my eyes, a wave of sentimentalism hit. That moment when I realized my dream is a reality. I’m in Scotland. I’m in Scotland. Repeating that phrase over and over again seemed to make everything materialize. What a feeling.

Sappiness aside, cut to me standing at the bus stop in the middle of a small Scottish hamlet called Cupar. Thanks to Google Maps, I had an idea of where this dentistry was located. Matters seem so much clearer on computer screens! Through the amazing process of dead-reckoning, and popping into a chemists’ shop to ask directions, I forged ahead and found the wee cottage where my dentist was waiting for me. Or, rather, I waited for the dentist - my bus put me in Cupar about an hour before my appointment so I had time to kill. I’m here to say that waiting rooms in Scotland are just the same as waiting rooms in America. I also am happy to report that dentists still give out stickers over here in the Old Country. A cute kid skipped out the door with some Scooby-Doo action on his shirt and I had to smile to myself. Children will be children!

Finally, after reading a book for class and conversing with fellow patients, it was my turn to be seen. Contrary to the popular belief of some, a government funded health institution doesn’t look like a scene out of a George Orwell novel. Although, I have to say, I have heard my experience was a treat. Apparently some dentists, as the doctor was telling me, can be quite horrific. When I told the dentist that I haven’t had a check-up in two years she laughed heartily and said, “O honey, you’re in Scotland now. Two years is about normal!” At that moment, I felt right at home.

Turns out, my “cavity” wasn’t a cavity at all but, rather, really dirty teeth. Sounds lovely, huh? She cleaned out the gunk and put a filling cap of sorts on my two back teeth. While the treatment wasn’t free, it also wasn’t terribly expensive. With the NHS subsidy, 16 pounds for a dentist visit was incredibly reasonable – especially in a country where people stereotypically never make dentist appointments and simply let teeth fall right out of their head.

Another cultural experience happened while I was waiting to catch the X24 back to St Andrews. Propped up against the bus stop wall, I was able to witness a very Scottish phenomenon. Neds! A ‘ned’, according to Wikipedia - the source of all wisdom, is “a white adolescent male of working class background, who wear brand names, gold jewellery, and engage in hooliganism, petty criminality, loutish behaviour, fighting, underage drinking and smoking or general anti-social behavior.” Just so you guys have an idea of what we’re dealing with here. ‘Ned’ stands for "non-educated delinquent,” and this same lot could be spotted in England under the guise of ‘chav’. So, yes, I was waiting in a bus stop full of these kids engaging in all the above mentioned behavior. Where are you parents? Don’t you have homework? What are you two doing? These questions and more flew into my mind as I observed this funny group of people. Hopefully this little comment isn’t too horrible, it was just such a peculiar experience I had to share! Needless to say, I returned to St Andrews unscathed and with cleaner teeth than before I left.

More homework to do this evening. I’m actually doing very well keeping up with assignments; Easter Holidays are a great motivator.

Proud to be an American?

Today, since it’s my sisters’ birthday, I’m particularly thinking about home, which also means thinking about America. Lately, I feel like I’ve been taking one for the team over here across the pond!

When I first arrived in Scotland most people were friendly enough, lightheartedly making jokes at the expense of the land of the free, usually rightly so. Let’s face it, America asks for it most of the time. However, something happened last week. A kernel of patriotism was found in my true blue heart. So many people were making slams against the States and I had to be there to protect my country!

For an instance, how do you respond when a dinner conversation begins with, “O, no offense, but why the heck do Americans think they’re so amazing?” Or, when you make a comment about how you love the history of the British Isles and another friend says snidely, “Well, yes, that’s because we actually have a history.” Ouch! Time after time, whether it’s making fun of our capitalistic sensibilities or insisting that British English is the only way to speak the language, I found myself almost getting angry. I haven’t felt this way since I landed in London! Even more upsetting, is that the only response I could come up with to counteract their attacks was, “O yeah? That’s why we fought a war to get rid of you people!”

Of course these jests are in fun, but the jokes are certainly echoes of deeper sentiments which have divided our fine nations since that fateful day in 1776. Although I do concede that rugby is far superior to American football and driving on the correct side of the road makes much more sense – I want to maintain a sense of national pride. And yet, when I tried to think of highlights of American culture, my British friend blankly asked me, “What culture?” I suppose this thought process will take a bit longer than expected!

Two Birds with One Stone (#14 and #19, down!)

Edinburgh! What to say about this grand capital city? Two friends, Witman and Berea, came along with me as we set out early this morning to see the sights. (As a side note, I really am enjoying coordinating these little trips. Who knows? I could be a travel guide in the making!) Our bus trip was very pleasant as we hugged along the Fife Costal Path, again reminding me of Scotland’s charm and natural beauty. Once we arrived in Edinburgh, I was sold. I would love to have seen Edinburgh in all its Scottish Enlightenment glory; absolutely stunning buildings, despite the fact that cheap tourist shops and thrills have set up camp over recent decades. Alas, the pressures of catering to mass amounts of travelers! Reluctantly, I do admit that I myself am a tourist – but my travelling buddies and I did draw the line at having our pictures taken with ‘Braveheart’.

We first stopped at the National Gallery. What an amazing art museum and it’s free, to boot! Depressingly the Impressionist floor was closed for renovations; I’ve noticed that Scotland seems to close down during the Winter months for such projects. Degas or no Degas, the National Gallery did house some amazing pieces – enough to happily fill an hour and a half of cultural literacy. I saw an original Gainsborough and two Rembrant’s. Just wonderful! I like to imagine out stories for the paintings I see, or imagine how the artist created his masterpiece. It brings everything to life.

Edinburgh Castle was quite impressive, like Stirling but far more imposing. Every visitor should be aware of the epic 1 o’ clock cannon firing – judging from the press of people, however, I would safely say that everyone was! My great joy was seeing the crown jewels, namely the Stone of Scone and Queen Mary’s crown. Today was the first time I think I actually got emotional over this whole trip. Those moments I’ve been waiting for, they just come when you least expect it! Staring at Mary Queen of Scots’ crown was like staring into the past. It was a window into another time.

Lunch at a very swanky restaurant, which I believe was also hosting some sort of wedding - lots of men looking dapper in kilts and women looking fancy in hats. Guys do look so nice in kilts. After we had food in our tummies, we set off for a Scottish Whisky Experience. Not only do you get to ride around in a barrel and watch a presentation of how whisky is made, you also get a sample! After a brief introduction to the four major regions of Scotch Whisky, I chose the Lowland Malt. My smelling bottle indicated that this malt would be sweet, like warm cookies. Well, let me tell you, it felt like I dipped my tongue in a bottle of rubbing alcohol! So far on this trip, I’m the worst alcoholic ever – which is, actually, quite a blessing. I do appreciate the art of whisky making; it really is a craft and such a beautiful, friendly piece of Scottish culture. Also impressive is the over 3,000 bottle collection of whisky the venue houses. The McIntyre Whisky Collection is easily appraised at millions of pounds, though the exact price tag is kept secret.

Warmed by our wee drams, Witman, Berea, and I decided to hit the outdoors again. By this time, the sun decided to shine all over the city. What a magical effect! (I feel like I use that word so often, magical.) Nipping in and out of shops, we made our way to the end of the Royal Mile which led us to Carlton Hill. Such a sight! A fantastic view of Edinburgh rewards those who can brave the steep climb. We lay out on the grass and soaked up the sun, the city, and the warmth which friendship (and malt!) brings.

To close our day, we decided to eat at The Elephant House – a restaurant which has been made famous by J.K. Rowling. Harry Potter was crafted in this trendy pub, and with a stunning view of the castle, I can imagine her inspiration for Hogwarts School. Mind you, I haven’t actually read the Harry Potter books – my parents were of the more conservative opinions towards Harry and his friends – but I whipped out my journal and composed a few lines at the table in any case. Who knows where my wee scribbles will take me?

As we headed towards the Bus Station, Edinburgh lit up. The nightscape view of the city is rather impressive. Surprisingly, we found our way to the station with little to no trouble. And, also surprisingly, we found our way back to St Andrews! Juggling public transportation still kind of freaks me out, but today, everything went rather smoothly. I was actually surprised to avoid one of my famed misadventures. Next week I’ll be in Edinburgh again for the evening, so there’s still plenty of time!

I’m really happy to have a chance to look at this city again. Edinburgh, as with all European capitals, is overwhelming at first. I always love when I can find ways to get off the beaten path and see little gems of a place. Edinburgh, I know, has so many of these hidden in its churches, closes, and castles. From what I did see, I know that Edinburgh serves Scotland well as a capital. A vibrant mix of Old Town charm and New Town industry, nestled between dramatic landscapes, the city is almost a symbol of Scotland itself.