Holy Week has flown by! We attended Good Friday Communion service - apparently Good Friday is the only day that Catholics don’t consecrate the Eucharist – in the Chapel of the Legionaries. As usual, I felt incredibly Protestant. But, despite being a fish out of water, this service was very nice. I was able to participate in many of the elements of worship – like receiving a blessing or kissing the crucifix. After the Communion Service we made our way to the Coliseum, for Stations of the Cross. Talk about an experience! I’ve never been so closely smashed against perfect strangers before. Standing at the base of the Coliseum was quite a mind-blowing experience. Last time I was in Rome we toured the inside, but the grandeur and importance of it all still strikes me. Stations of the Cross, of course, is also very important. The Pope knelt throughout the entire service and, at one point, needed one of the priests to drape a cape over his shoulders because he was cold. That little moment made Pope Benedict seem more like a real human being. Despite a rather unfortunate encounter with a creepy, old, and perverted man – Stations went very well and was as reverent as it should have been.
Saturday, for Easter Vigil, we were also at the Legionaries’ Chapel – and this service was massive. Of course, not being Catholic, Mass is still a rare occasion for me. Easter Vigil Mass lasted for three hours. Can you believe it!? Thankfully, the time is so artfully divided in such a way that your attention is entirely on the ceremony, not the lateness of the hour. Also, these services are obviously in a mix of Italian, Spanish, German, French, Latin, as well as English – our attempts at translation, at least to grasp a contextual sense of what’s going on, could keep anyone on their toes! When I was a little girl, I remember participating in Easter festivities like egg hunts, gift baskets, and sunrise service. Time must have jaded my family. We just aren’t the holiday celebrators that we used to be. Saturday night, somewhere between the candlelight procession and Alleluia chorus, I made a decision to be more aware of important days and mark them accordingly.
As you might imagine, all of these Masses and Vigils led up to one gigantic Easter Sunday Mass. Undaunted by the gathering rain clouds, our band set off early this morning to secure good seats for the Pope’s Mass in St. Peter’s Square. Just before the ever-efficient Swiss guards opened up the security gates, a tell-tell drizzle began to fall from the heavens. By the time we found our seats, the drizzle had turned to a steady downpour, testing our commitment to the faith. Devout Catholics would never be deterred from a little fall of rain. If the Pope could brave the rain, then so could we! Holy Thursday Mass was still my favorite, but this Mass was special in its own way. Unfortunately, I had to struggle to not think about the condition of my clothes and hair, which was drenched in no time at all despite my poncho, and about my shoes which are one size too big, since I had to replace my old faithful boots, they finally gave out.
On a total side note, living like a turtle certainly has made me aware of my little vanities. How much I think about my appearance! And, then, when my wardrobe is confined to a few meager pieces, how self-conscious I become!
Mass finished an hour earlier than expected, Pope Benedict is merciful, and we began to head out. As a bit of a treat, the Holy Father reappeared on the balcony of the Basilica which promoted enthusiastic cheers of “Viva il Papa!” from the crowd. Dutifully, we listened to his address and received the Pope’s Easter Blessing.
In one hour’s time we found hot sandwiches to silence our growling stomachs and arrived back in the hotel – after which I promptly shimmied into my sweatpants and took a much needed nap. This evening we’re headed to the house of the Consecrated Women for Easter Supper. Food, and free food to boot, is always much appreciated.
Tomorrow morning I fly out from Rome to London for the second, and far more British, leg of my Easter Holiday. Bouna Pasqua!
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