I had to laugh at myself. Sitting in front of me at the Regency Tea Room in Bath was a glass of hard lemonade, Fentimans’ Victorian to be exact. After a whole pot of tea at the Georgian Pump Rooms earlier that morning, I simply didn’t want more. Both experiences were a part of my, what I’ve dubbed, “Jane Austen Nerd Tour” – culminating with my visit to the Jane Austen Centre in Bath, England. Like any self-respecting Literature student, I would do almost anything for Jane Austen. During my Easter Holidays, I willingly took an hour’s train ride outside of the City of London to visit the Jane Austen House in Hampshire and, in addition, planned an entire portion of my vacation around the City of Bath specifically to visit a Centre dedicated to her life and work; as I said, completely self-respecting. Emily Strong Smith travel grant monies funded my little pilgrimage.
Visiting Jane Austen’s house brought to life many of her works. When my train arrived in Alton, the cab drivers seemed to intuitively know that Chawton was my final destination. “Going to Jane Austen’s house, are we?” I hadn’t even opened my mouth but, perhaps, the empire-waistline summer dress and rosy expression meant I didn’t have to.
Crossing the threshold from a 21st century world to Austen’s 19th century one was like time travel. Historians have ensured that the Austen house is well-preserved and well-displayed. In many ways, I felt like a visitor rather than a tourist - walking up and down stairs, along hallways, and through doors that Austen herself did. During her years in Hampshire Austen was incredibly prolific, producing and refining many of the classics we know today. Seeing the writing table where those works were composed utterly thrilled me. Chawton village is modern, but visitors only need stroll down a country lane to catch a glimpse of what life may have been like during Jane Austen’s residence. Atmosphere has been beautifully, and un-affectedly, preserved. By happenstance, I found the church where the Austen’s attended and where Jane Austen’s mother and sister are buried. Like paying respects to a relation, I took a moment and marveled at the life and times of Jane Austen. Then, it was all dashing back to my hostel in London before nightfall with visions of cravats and carriages in my head. My “Nerd Tour” ultimately concluded, and came to a culmination, in Bath.
Interestingly enough, Jane Austen was at her least productive in Bath. She found the city frivolous, tiresome, and oppressive. Even so, two of her major works, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion, demonstrate a thorough grasp of the ins-and-outs of Bath, which was apparently worthy enough to warrant the founding of a centre to commemorate and promote this authoress.
My first day in Bath, I found the famous Assembly Rooms and Royal Crescent – both important settings in Northanger Abbey and Persuasion. With the help of my iPod, I could just picture grand balls being held in the Rooms, with the gentility dancing a quadrille or gossiping in the corner about Lady So-and-So. The Royal Crescent, more recently, was made iconic by a film adaptation and I couldn’t resist indulging in my own reenactment. Retiring to my hostel for the evening, I resolved to finish the “Jane Austen Nerd Tour” with a bright new day.
In the spirit of Georgian elegance, I decided to take morning tea in the Pump Rooms. Brits would flock to Bath back in the day not only for the spas but, also, for the water's healing properties. I’m sorry to say, that lukewarm liquid minerals aren’t the most enjoyable! Thankfully, a wee glass was only fifty pence, so, I counted my losses and sauntered off to the Jane Austen Centre.
Learning about Jane Austen as a novelist in such an interactive way made me appreciate her work even more. Also, as a side note, I really appreciated being in the company of like-minded people; traveling alone, while exhilarating, is prone to bouts of loneliness. At the Jane Austen Centre, I felt safe. I knew that kindred spirits could be found. Usually, when I mention Jane Austen, people mutter something to the effect of, “Yeah, I read Pride and whatever-it’s-called in high school. Hated it.” Honestly! Though, apparently, some total philistines have made their way through the attraction as well. This chap who worked in the Tea Rooms told me that, in the past, tourists, sadly Americans, asked if Jane Austen was available for book signings, if she lived close-by, and even if they could meet her. 200 years too late, buddy, seriously. Incidentally, the Tea Rooms is where I accidentally ordered that hard lemonade. Really, it was a total accident! I thought it was lemonade, but actually it was fermented – who knew? I asked for a glass for a glass of water, because I wasn't about to start drinking alone, especially in front of Mr. Darcy! Back to Austen!
Mostly, this tour allowed me to re-connect with Jane Austen’s novels in a very real sense. My personal interest was rekindled and my academic interest sparked. I found similarities between myself and Austen, from the color of our eyes to our positions as pastor’s daughters. Jane Austen really was an amazing writer and, Lord willing, if my work becomes a fraction as developed as hers – I will be doing well.
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